HISTORY OP GRAND CANYON RATIONAL by Margaret ML Verkamp A Thesis submitted to the faculty of the Department' of History in the partial fulfillment of requirements for the degree of 1'aster of Arts in the Graduate College University of Arizona 1S«G PARK PREFACE In this presentation of a National Park stress has been ent settlement. The simultaneous at Grand In an upon placed upon events Previous to this time its its eventual creation as upon chronological history of Grand Canyon a follovjing its perman¬ history had little bearing national park. growth of the mining industry and tourist travel Canyon caused little conflict until the former began to decline. effort to save their holdings, the miners attempted to encroach the tourist business operated by the railroad and its subsidiaries. Bitter controversies resulted. This thesis follows the ness and their control. development of the mining and tourist busi¬ conflict, which resulted in the need for governmental This control was not achieved tion and national indifference its easily. growth steps, through the efforts of 'individual was Due to local opposi¬ slow, advancing by gradual men. ) ABSTRACT The exolorations of the parties along the States survey included the Spaniards, American trappers Grand Canyon in little interest in and United and 1090 Their reports aroused Colorado Fiver "between 1540 several instances. the Canyon because no details or descriptions were The arrival of the rail¬ road in northern Arizona had t. greater influence, because it brought settlers into the region. Among the newcomers were many prospectors to Yihon the Canyon offered a rich field for activity. The prospectors given, beyond the began working companies. mention of its existence. at the Canyon about 1'ining proved to be about 1900, mining unprofitable and began to decline 1885 and were soon followed by Tourist travel, which developed simultaneously with the century. The struggle of the mining concerns to prolong their life is the story of continual controversy beteeon them and the railroad and the National Government. Due to the national aspect of the tourist trade, the mining interests, grew Government finally "a national park. the rapidly after the turn of the took over full Then tho Government's placed under strict control was firmly established, which was regulation by the Government for the benefit of mining interests were the tourists. control by creating the Grand Canyon ousted in favor of the railroad, , X TABLE CHAPTER I. OP PAGE . OP PERIOD EXPLORATION A. B* C* D* III* A* THE GRAND Explorations of the CANYON REGION * . 15 Early American Visitors to the Grand Canyon* Coming of the Railroad to Northern Arizona* First Attempts to Build a Railroad to the Grand Canyon* Prospecting at Grand Canyon* AT MINING B* IV. OF OPENING 1 11540-1880 A* Spanish Conquistadors# B* Spanish Missionaries* C* American Trappers* D* Official and Semi-official Colorado River* II* CONTENTS GRAND 26 CANYON prospeotors* Mining Companies* TRAVEL TOURIST AT GRAND CANYON 35 A* Early Stage Lines* B* Hotels at Grand Canyon* C* Curios and D* North Rim* V* THE A. B* C* D* E* VI. BRIGHT Photography* ANGEL TRAIL 46 Controversies Over Toll 'Collection* Coconino County Acquires Possession of the Trail* The Railroad's Attempts to Gain Control of the Trail* The National Government's Purchase of the Trail* Controversies Over Ralph Cameron's Mining Claims* GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK 58 A* B* C* D* Creation of Grand Canyon Forest Reserve* Creation of Grand Canyon National Monument* Creation of Grand Canyon National Park* National Park Service Control of the Grand Canyon National Park* E* Later Developments Under Federal Direction of the Grand Canyon National Park* BIBLIOGRAPHY 71 chapter tub The Grand Canyon An op period i exploration 1540-1880 of Arizona was first seen by white men in 1540. expedition of Spaniards under Francisco Vasquez de sent from Mexico Coronado had been by Viceroy Antonio de Mendoza to explore the country north of Culiacan in an effort to find the seven rich cities of Cibola. Spaniards had heard rumors of these cities since 1530. The Euno de Guzman had attempted to reach them by an overland route north through Mexico, but found the mountains difficult to pass of the province of Culiacan too through. Florida expe¬ Again in 153G four survivors of Panfilo de Karvaez's dition of 1528 arrived in Vera Cruz cities of Cibola. of the Sonora bearing more accounts of the seven They had received their information from the Indians Valley. Panfilo de Narvaoz had received a patent author¬ izing him «»to explore, conquer and colonize the country and the Rio de Talmas'w an extent of territory bordering on the Gulf of de Mexico*. either lost at sea or killed vra3 between Florida comprising all the land Practically his entire expedition by the Indians. Vaoa, Alonso del Castillo faldonado, Andres Negro, escaped. In that year Cnly four men, Cabeza Dorantes and Estevan, a After seven years of wandering through the country along the Texas gulf coast these four men managed to find their way to Continuing the coast' of the Gulf of California in northern Mexico. l/ bins hip, g. p., '"'The Coronado Expedition", 14th Annual Report Bureau of Ethnology, p. 346. of the southeast, Sinaloa parallel with tho coast, they met some Valley2 who directod then to Vera Cruz. Viceroy concerning the cities of Cibola. questioning him, Mendoza determined to After Estevan as guide, to explore a route. Est even traveled two weeks in advance of Fray Marcos, reaching the village of Cibola was death killed by the natives. frightened the Friar*s Indians, who refused Cibola at a village, the best that I have seen could see from the height settlement is Marcos' the fine appearance for where I placed myself to observe it, the Mexico.**'* report encouraged I'endoza to There were the land It is in these parts...Judging by what I larger than the city of following year. News of his to advance. He said that n,it has a very distance.' and won small hill from which he could see reported that they took Marcos to a a send an expedition to find Friar, Marcos de Kiza, with In 1539 he sent a Franciscan the cities. At Vera Cruz they Their I'endoza who summoned Dorantes for an interview. repeated what they had heard story reached clave hunters in the send the Coronado expedition This latter was under taken on a large scale. party of about three hundred Spaniards and hundred Indians under Francisco Vascuez de Coronado^ and a fleet of three The latter was to sail uo the Gulf of ships under Fernando de Alarcon. California. 2/ Bishop, M. G., The Cays rev of Cabeza de Vaca, pp. 3/ Winship, 4/ 00. several cit», pp. 361-362. Ibid., pp. 378-379 2 63-144. toilsome travol Coronado's army After five months of Cibola* Tho army It proved to bo was take, habited country a three weeks Tvhilo thoy were stationed at Cibola* He commissioned west* small force and visit this province, which was Tovar marched northeast for five called Tusayan* a natives* told of seeie Indian towns to the Don Pedro lover to tales of mud village inhabited by the Zuni Indians* conquered the town and remained thore for two or resting and subduing the Coronado a poor arrived at Proa the natives he heard until he reached Tusayan* mighty river several days to the Tovar returned to Cibola Eis report Garcia Lopez do Cardenas to find it* expedition as followsj well received when ho reaohed natives, who gave him guides for his journey* They started from her© loaded with provisiors, for they had to go through a desert country before reaching the inhabited region, He (Cardenas) was Tusayan and was entertained by the which the Indians said was more journey* than twenty days .After thej had gone twenty days they come to the banks of tho river, than three or four leagues which seemed to be more above the stream which flowed between them* * This country was elevated and full of lew twisted pines, very cold and lying open toward the north, so that, this being the worm season, one could live there on account of the cold* Thoy spent three days on this bank looking for a passage to tho river which looked from above as if the vie.ter was six feet across, although the Tndiens said it was half a league wide* It was Impossible to descend, for after these three days Captain iielgosa and one Juan Galeras and another companion, who were the three lightest aid most agile men, made an attempt to go down at the least difficult place, and went down until those who were above were unable to keep sight of them* Thoy returned about four o'clock in the afternoon, not having succeeded in reaching the bottom no 5/ Winship, op* cit*, p* 390a . west*** without hunting for the river* interested Coronado, who sent Don Castenada describes the small days through unin¬ o:a difficulties which they Recount of tho grtiat found, because what seemed to be easy from above was not so, but Instead very hard and difficult. They said that they liad been down about a third of the way and that the river seemed very large from the place which they reached, and that from what they saw, they thought tho Indians had given the width correctly. Those who had stayed above had estimated that some huge rocks on the sides of ——the cliffs seemed to be about as tall en a man, but those who went dtrwn swore that when they reached these rocks they were bigger than the great tower of Seville. They did not go farther up the river because they could not get water. Before this they had hod to go a league or two inland every day late in the evening in order to find water, and the guides said that if they should go four days ther it would not be possible to go on, there was no water within three or four > days .0 it is difficult from this account to determine on the subject seem from his hone of the It is quite evident that able to agree. ho must have reached the eastern the exact locality Canyon of the Colorado. from which Cardenas saw the Grand authors far¬ because end of the south rim of the Canyon description of the trees and altitude. While Coronado fleet sailed uo was advancing overland. Alarcon with his small the Gulf of California. At the head of the gulf he I came to the mouth of the Colorado River. He is given the credit of Guia^. Leaving small boats5. having discovered this river, which he named the Buena his ship in the gulf Alarcon ascended the Unable to contact Coronado, he river® in descended tho river and returned with his fleet to New Spain. 6/ Winship, cit., pp. 429-490. ?/ James, G. Y»., The Grand Canyon of /risona, p. 8/ Simpson, 9/ op. J. E., Coronado's Errch, p. 10. It is not known how far upstream he went. 4 199. In the meantime, Coronado left Cibola and continued Ms explora¬ His operations extended as far east as eastern tions to the east. Kansas.^ During this expedition of two years he found nothing of His men grew discontented and value. The next Speniard to enter the country of the Grand Canyon was Franciscan Friar, a forced him to return to Kexico. a In 1079 ho received word from Augustin Rodriguez. captured Indian of a well populated country lying north, and his zeal for souls prompted him to visit these people His expedition left the mission at Santa Barbara anc. followed the Conches River to the Rio Grande. fhey ascended the Rio Grande to the villages lying along its banks between Hew Albuquerque and Santa Pe« In 1581 reports reached Spain that Fray Rodriguez and the two priests who had accompanied him from Santa Barbara, had been killed by the natives in the vicinity of Santa Fe. Don Antonio Bspe^jo led an expedition to this region to ascertain the truth of this the rumor.12 After learning definitely that priests had been killed, he- turned to exploring the country. His reports of these explorations were responsible for the colonization of the Rio Grande country in 1528. The settlements Spaniards for about River country. along the Rio Grande engaged the interest of the one hundred years to the neglect, of the Colorado Cnatets expedition in 1604 was Colorado until 1701 when Father Kino, a Jesuit the last to visit the missionary in Pimeria Alta, explored the lower end of the river, establishing the fact that lower California was a peninsula end not an island.^ lo/ Bolton, H. E., and Marshall, T. M., The Colonization of ITorth Acterica, pp. 46-47 11/ Bolton, H. E., Spanish ZbmLoraticns of the Southwest, 12/ 13/ Bancroft, I!. E., History of Arizona and Hew Haxico, p. 68. Bolton, H. £., Rim of Christendom, pp. 464-486. 5 pp. 137-138. With the expulsion of the Jesuits from ITew Franciscans took over the new the missions on the north Father Kino He explored much of the and became thoroughly In 1774 when fornia they chose ho left the crossed it and He made two trips with explored the 1'ojavo country he turned west and He next returned to the traveled east to, the vicinity ho arrived at Eaves up ai or of Kingman* Colorado, Turning north Cataract Canyon, a branch of the arrived at Kavasupal Canyon the down to visit the tribe cription of the descent given Cali¬ On the second, in 1776, independent exploring up the Colorado for two months. When Garoes territory covered by to California* party and did some into California enthusiastic ex¬ to find a land route to Father Gaross as guide* Upon reaching Among acquainted with it* the Spaniards desired Captain Juan Bautista do Ansa he go Pacific Slope* missionaries was Father Francisco Gar cos, an plorer and missionary. River* Spain in 1767 the living there. Grand Canyon* Indians insisted that The following is a des¬ by the priest» I arrived at a rasoheria, which is on the Rio Jabosua, which I name! (Rio) do San Antonia, and in order to reach this piece I traversed a strait which I call the Huabo Confran* This extends about three quarters (of a league), on one side is lofty cliff, and on the other a horrible This difficult road passed, there presented itself another and worse one, which obliged us to leave, I my mule and they their horses, in,order that we might climb down a ladder of wood*" a very abyss* Garces on his way 14/ stayed in Cataract Canyon for a to Tusayaxu He traveled to the Coues, E*, Can the Trail few days and then continued Southeast and then of a Spanish. Pioneer, Vol, 6 II, p* 337* east and, as ho records, halted at the sight of the most profound caxones which ever onward continue- and within these flow the Rio Colorado. There is seen a very great sierra, which in the distance there (looks) "blue; and from the southeast to the northwest runs a pass open to the very base, as if the sierra were cut artifically to give entrance to the Rio Colorado into those lands, I named this singular (pass) Bucareli**5 Puerto da From the Grand Canyon Father Garces continued in an easterly direction to fuse yam. Here he did not receive a very enthusiastic welcome and was warned to return* The same year Father Garces; visited the Grand Canyon, Father Escalanto left Ranta Fe in search of an overland route from that to the mission at He detoured northeast into Monterey, California* Colorado and then turned northwest until he reached the forcing him to return without reaching California* On the return trip Escslante and his party returned southeastward until the Indians warned them of an east to impassable chasm ahead, the Grand They were forced to change their route to the north and north¬ Canyon* a week of hard labor to cross the river* still called The The with the It ford of the Colorado of which the Indians had told them. a took them a valley of the Winter overtook him before reaching the Sierra Uevada Great Salt Lake* range, city This crossing is Crossing of tho Fathers* Spanish explorations of the Grand Canyon region came to an end expeditions of Fathers Garces and lis col ante* There were not sufficient number of natives to warrant the establishment of missions 15/ Ibid., pp. 347-348* Buearoli Spain at that tine* Now 7 was the name of the Viceroy of end the country yjus not rich fertile enough to entice settlers# or Hot until after the Louisiana Purchase end the Lewis and tion did white a man Clark Expedi¬ again visit, the region bordering the Grand Canyon# acquisition of the vast territory in the northwest by the United The States encouraged many American fur trappers to migrate west of the Missouri River# In 1822 the Rocky Mountain Pur company was formed by William In the spring of 1825 he went in search of beavers in the Ashley# of the Green River# canyons southern Utah where it This river rises in Wyoming and flows into joins th<» Grand, forming the Colorado# trio down the Green was very Ashley's dangerous, because of the perpendicular wails rising from the water's edge, and the rapids in the river# was the first man to attempt to abandon the to navigate this river #-*-® He trip when he lost his boat near the mouth of was a He forced small river which nour bears his name# In 1826 former Ashley sold the Rocky Mountain Fur Company to three of his employees; Jedediah S# Smith, David E» Jackson and William Subi Jedediah Smith did the lette# found a now route to California.. from Utah Lake to the of the west Mojave# across exploring for the company This route crossed the Sevier IToxt the Colorado was crossed and the trail continued the desert to Sen Diego, California# were by the trapoers, those of the south were not neglected# 16/ a Valley Virgin River, descending the Virgin to the mouth Y.hilo the northern tributaries of the Colorado Young led and in 1826 party down the Gila to the Colorado# being explored In 1826 Ewing From the junction Chittenden, E# M#, The American Fur Trade of the Far "est. 271. Vol. I, p# 8 he rent north along the Colorado over practically the same route fol- .. lowed with. perpendicu3a r rails on either side forcing hin and his party to climb the rail3 end continue the Grand v;as a At Black Canyon the rivor gorge narrowed by Father Garces in 1776. Canyon. narrative of the along the rim of the canyons, one of which James Ohio Pattie, a member cf the party, wrote . trip end had the following to say of the journey from r Black Canyon: f Vie reached a point of the river rhero the moun¬ tains shut in so close upon its shores, that we were compelled to climb a mountain, and travel along the acclivity, the river still in sight, and at an immense depth below us. Through this whole distance, which we judged to be, as the river meanders, one hundred leagues, v/o bad mow from a foot to eighteen inches deep* The r$ver bluffs on the opposite shore were never more than a mile from us. It is perhaps, this very long and formidable range of mountains, which has oaused, that this country of Eed river, has not been more explored, at least by the American people. A march more gloomy end heart wearing, to people r Is hungry, poorly clad, and mourning the loss of their companions, cannot be imagined. Our horses had picked a little herbage and had subsisted on the bark of shrubs. Our provisions were running low, end we expected every hour to see our horses entirely give out. April 10, we arrived where the river emerges from mountains, which so cage it up, as to deprive all human beings of the ability to descend to its banks, and rtabe uso of its waters these horrid Young's party continued up the Colorado Rivor to the Grand. This they followed to the Continental Divide, which they crossed and descended on the eastern side to Santa Fe. 17/ Flint, T. (ed.), The Personal Narrative of James 0. Pattio of Kentucky, p. 97 9 In 1829 Young sent a second trapping Christopher ("Kit") Carson was among the They followed a route Canyon# the Indians of the men;bers and after the trapping ho and eighteen companions were sent to had been done the Grand party into the Gila country# northward for eight day3, until they came upon They remained only long enough to secure food from and then turned west crossing the because of the caravan by Carson end his party was one seldom used lack of food and water along the way# route from Santa Fe to California was Trail# This route was first found in 1830 of Swing Young's men# tion to the head -waters Green Rivers through the Gunnison Valley# It followed the Virgin the lower end of Besides the Kevada into mountain men# From Gunnison Valley it Wasatch Range, then turned south through Bam Mountains to the Virgin to the Colorado and then passed across California#-^ Colorado, there were many independent trappers They loft few records, and as they worked alone their travels are difficult to trace# Canyon# by William Wolfskill, one organized companies engaged in the fur traffic along the tributaries of the as called the Old Spanish of the Sen Juan River, across the Grand and Mountain Meadows and across the Boaver River# The regular It started from Taos in a northeasterly direc¬ crossed the western base of the Grand Colorado near the mouth Mojava.18 The route followed known California# Some may have seen the Certainly most of them saw the Colorado River# IS/ Vestal, 3#, Kit Carson, pp# 48-49# 19/ Bancroft, H# E», History of Utah, pp# 23-24 10 This rivor * "whose tho unique beauty of erosive f orces aro responsible for so much tho country" through which it runs, was never very influential toward the opening cf fact that it was tho country. became interested in it in 1850 as a possible moans of transporting army & survey In a row The supplies to southwestern army posts. of Topographical Engineers of the War Department authorized of the river under the direction boat he ascended the river from lishing tho This was duo to tho not navigable {long most of its course. The Baited States government The Bureau of Lieutenant George H. Derby. the mouth to Fort Yuma, estab¬ navigability of the river for that short distance. following year Captain Lorenzo Sitgreaves, of the United States Topographical Engineers, was sent to determine the source River and follow it to its junction with the Colorado. to the instructed to follow the Colorado along the banks of the Little Sitgreaves turned so uthwsst Thence he turned mouth.2^ of the Zuni He was &I30 Unable to follow Colorado, into which the Zuni empties, overland until he reached Bill Lillians Fork. directly v;est und reached the Colorado River near mouth of the Hojave. Fort of He hurried south, following the the Colorado to Yuma.21 In 1854 Lieutenant A. from the mouth of W. Whipple followed the Colorado upstream Bill "Williams Fork to the Yojave and reported it navigable for small steam boats• 20/ Sitgreaves, Lorenzo, Report Colorado Rivers, p. 21/ Ibid., p. on an 4. 4ff• 11 Expedition Dovra the Zuni end Those various the fact official tend uend-official explorations established that the Colorado was navigable in parts® Therefore, in 1857 an expedition navigation had not been determined. Lieutenant Joseph C. Ives was sent by the War Department to ex¬ under plore the river At this point the rapiis become so frequent end treacherous Canyon. was men vdth this end in view. steamship the Explorer Ives ascended the Colorado to Black In his he But the extent of Leaving it, he and two other unable to take the ship farther. rowed a skiff through Black Canyon to Vegas Wash. . He proceeded no reported the lower end of Black Canyon as the head of steam farther and navigation.^2 Following the expeditions upstream, two were made in 1869 and 1870 downstream ed The first by Major John 'Wesley Powell. wa3 privately arrang¬ by Powell vrith financial assistance from the Chicago Academy of Ho had become interested in the geology of the canyons of Science. Colorado in 1867 while conducting a Powell River party of geologists into Colorado. began his historic river trip on May 24, 1869, from Green City, Wyoming, on the Greeh "River. Canyon two and a half months later. Grand Canyon Powell many Ho arrived at the head of Grand On August 31 he emerged from the at the mouth of the Virgin River, where he ended his voyage. was not satisfied with the result s of his first trip because scientific instruments end records had been lost along the wsy. Therefore he determined to undertake group of men a second expedition. 22/ stages. With a new and financial aid f rom the Unites States government he set out from Green, River Station in the fall of 1870. two the The trip was made in The first was from Green River Station to the rarla River. Ives, Joseph C., Report on the Colorado River of the West. 12 At the Paria the boats were Utah. spend the winter at Kanab, second half of the of the Grand cached and the party left the river to journey ending it at Kanab Canyon, a side canyon Canyon.23* The last official river that under In July, 1871, they continued the oxpodifelon of the nineteenth century Captain George M. T.hoeler, in 1871. After upstream from Port Ilojave. a This expedition started month of laborious progress against rapids, tho party finally reached the mouth of Diamond Crook. party was waiting for them with much needed food. end his here. only It Is the on© more one expedition of started a encountered.^^ importance to b© considered any by Frank H« Brown in March, 1889, end completed the next year by R. B. Stanton. the idea of A land Yfhooler decided to explorations because of the great difficulties There is vras These men, having conceived railroad running through the canyons of the Colorado River, made their voyage to survey them for this purpose. Brown's death a little below Lse's Ferry, ended the first attempt. Tho second under Stanton's direction completed the California. cover He wastho first man t<) was possible from an a railroad to the Gulf of the entire distance from tho junction of the Grand and Green Rivsrs to the that the construction of survey Gulf.23 Stanton found through the canyons of the Colorado engineer's point of view, but quite impossible economically. 23/ Powell, J* V.•, Report of Explorations in 1873 of the Colorado of the "/est and Its Tributaries. 2 4/ "heeler, G. M., Report Upon United States Geographical Survovs best of the One Hundredth I pridian, pp. 25/ 158-189. -Freeman, L. R., The Colorado River, pp. 307-321. 13 2h© period of exploration ended about 1880. three hundred ■was During the spaa of and forty yoars aft or its disoovery, the Grand Canyon visited occasionally by white mon in the course These men were not of thoir travels# particularly interested in the Canyon, and not until tho arrival of the railroad in northern Arizona notice of it# 14 did people begin to take CHAPTER OPENING OP In 1919 the national THE GRAND a REGION national park• people from the four natural wonder* CANYON government of th© United States Grand Canyon of Arizona into thousands of II created the Today hundreds of corners of the world visit To these tourists it is a this great playground, preserved sole¬ ly for their enjoyment and that of the generations to follow them* Upon their first visit It formed? For years scientists have been question* on this There has been subject* be answeredj a national The a But there Yiho developed it? as question will enter their minds* one were the working to How was answer this considerable amount of literature written are still two other questions which should who men. opened up this great area Nhat chain of events has led up to its final creation park? answer to these questions is the romantic i hardships and fortitude of a small handfull of men. story of the labor, To them must be given the credit of awakening the public interest in the existence of this scenic wonder* Thoy clone, but whether they it was were or not all interested in it for its beauty not, it through their activity that today* closing decades of the nineteenth century the Grand was knovm to few people* hindrance to its early developm# oit#, p# 88# IS was mads From the time Hamblin loft Salt Lake until Grand his return h© had undo a tour completely around Canyon#^ This i3 the first record of such a trip. Hopi Indians upon their return to their Hanblin accompanied the the following year, 18S3. villages from Salt Lake Colorado near the site of Cataract Canyon, Pierce* s Ferry. 4 They crossed the Turning east they cam© upon which they crossed, rather than take the long route From Cataract Canyon the/ followed the old lloqui around. Eopi villages. the trail to the This trail is the ancient route followed by the Eoqui, Kojave, Eavasupai and other Indian tribes in the oast-west trade. his record of the trip, Hamblin makes no mention of the Grand Canyon, but he must have seen it as fact that he vras on a done was the trail closely approaches the Canyon*s This oaissioa can probably bs accounted for by the places. rim in many business trio and any sight seeing he might have only incidental and not worthy of As the Mormon visited several times was Arizona, the Grand Canyon was probably by the Mormons, but not much notice vras taken of it. not until the Atlantic and pacific Arizona that the Grand themselves recording.0 missionary and settlement activities continued through¬ out southern Utah and northern It railroad entered northern Canyon was first opened up by men who established permanently along its rim. The Atlantic and Pacific railroad reached Although there had been 1873, it In was a Flagstaff, Arizona, in 1882. small settlement of stockmen there as early as the railroad which insured the permanency of this settlement. ' if Jenson,' 4/ was first established by Harrison Pcarce in 1873. . The spelling harr. since changed. Today Pierce* s Ferry is a boat landing on Lake Head, the original si to of the ferry having been inundated .by the lake. 5/ McClintock, J. H., Mormon Fettle-neat in Arizona, pp. 69-70 op. cit., p. 63. This ferry 17 railroad "brought with it many eastern people, anxious to establish The themselves in this newly opened Ayer, a in 1882. .Among them was Edward E. Ay or. country. lumberman, initiated the first lumber company in Flagstaff, This was tho beginning of an industry which, together with the cattle and sheep business, developed Flagstaff into a thriving littlo town. As the population of Flagstaff grow, its people became more and more interested in the scenic wonders within its vicinity. Grand Canyon had been told by the few men who had soon and marveled at In February of 1884 Ayer employed Phillip and t illiem grandeur. its Stories of the Eull, who owned a sheep ranch several, miles south of tho Canyon, to aot as his guides on to make the a trip to see it. trip.® Ho is the first tourist on record By summer of the same year a number of people were Tnpking the three day journey from Flagstaff to the Grand Canyon. The enthusiasm of tho Canyon visitors was so became evident that it was destined to become a great that it soon great tourist resort. One of the first men to foresee this fact was John Honco. the Canyon in 1383. Yt'llliam Hull. 7 He A.t that time he wa3 and in 1834 homesteaded was He first saw engaged in brooking horses for greatly impressed by the beauty of the Canyon on the rim* He did so with the intention of building tourist accommodations. Captain John Hence, he ever actually held such most colorful oharacter. 6/ EoClintock, 7/ as ho a was called, although no one is cure that rank in the army, was probably the Canyon's Littlo 33 known of his J. H., Arisona, Vol. II, p. early life. 557. Bass, W. W*, Adventures in the Canyons of tho Colorado, 18 He p. 5 was a native of Tennessee, and during the Civil Vtor joined the Confederate Later he was taken prisoner 'by the Union forces and joined their A my. arny.^ After the Civil War he to Arizona from Missouri with came an 02 For several years ho hauled fodder for the army horses at Camp teem* Vcrd©.*^ Just whan he moved to northern Arizona is not definitely known. At the Grand and entertainers. Canyon he became one of the best known tourist guides His entertainment consisted chiefly in telling tall stories to his guests. By 1885 Eance had taken possession of G1 end ale Springs on the rim of the Canyon and with William Hull built a log cabin His guests reached the Canyon by a road running out of for tourists. A description of the road appeared in the Arizona Champion Flagstaff. of November 21st 3 The road from Grand Cenyon to Flagstaff is in capital condition for traveling. Though little traveled it has a sound base and is not rough. It is not difficult to trace and there steep grades or Shortly after establishing his home into the Canyon. are no declivities The head of this trail on the rim Hence built was located a a trail littio west of 1 his cabin, about sixteen miles east of the It had been be used an old Indian present Grand Canyon village. trail, and he worked it over but business evidently needed 8/ Nicholson, Kolb, lo/ Lauzon/ 11/ that it could by tourists to descend into the vast depths of the Cenyon. By 1888 Hanee had his little tourist establishment 9/ so , a little stimulus. well set up, He relied mainly on G. T., The Grand Cenyon of Arizona, p. 109. Personal Ir,terview3 March 18, 1940 H., Personal Interview, Parch 22, 1940. Arizona Champion, November 21, 1885. 19 the people of Flagstaff and its vicinity for his "business* For several months he ran the following advert is esment in the local papers Being thoroughly conversant with ell the trails leading to the Grand Caryon of the Colorado, I am prepared to conduct parties thereto at eny time* I have a fine spring of water near my houso on the rim of the Canyon, and can furnish accommodations enirols*-^ for tourists and their Hence's business may have worried him* few years lie used the dull seasons was scheme with the never During the first few small and copper His chief gain from his prospecting tours was an working in his limited travel to the Grand Canyon, some of Canyon from Flagstaff* way so They saw Their idea was well as a guide* to build up the tourist Flagstaff's citizens end in view* same ing world wide tourist travel* were working on the possibility of attract¬ to run a railroad to the On December 31, 1886, the Flagstaff and Grand Canyon Railroad Company J. S* a knowledge of the Canyon, which qualified him While Ilanoe a to prospect* of his residence at the Canyon he made asbestos discoveries* intimate been rather slow at times, but this was organised*^"3 The following June, while Morris, the president of the*company, went East to make financial arrangements, a survey The ambitious lack of enthusiasm party began work east of Flagstaff. undertaking on attempted too early* the soon mot with failure, not because of part of its promoters, but because it The Canyon was not well enough known and the men able to finance it could not be convinced of the future such a 12/ Austin, E*, Grand Canyon Items, p* 1 13/ J. S. Morris railroad* The company was was dis olved, but the idea President- D. M. possibilities for never died* Rlordan, Treasurer, S* A* Buckler, A. Riordan, D. K* Rlordan, J- U* Eddy, A* A* McDonnell aid J* S. Morris, Directors* Arizona Champion, January 8, 1887* Secretary- P. P. Daggs, P. J. Brsnnen, T. 20 attempt was made in 3.889• A second torial Legislature That year the Fifteenth Terri¬ passed an aot "to encourage the construction of a railroad to the Grand Canyon of tho Colorado#" It providedj That any corporation duly organized and incorporated under the lews of this Territory which shall con¬ struct a railroad from some point upon the line of the Atlantic end Pacific "Railroad#.• to some suit¬ able point upon the Grand Canyon... shall be exempted, species of property, real, personal and or occupied by said company for the purpose of constructing, operating end main¬ taining said road shall be exempt from taxation of every kind and description whatsoever..# during the process of construction and for the period of six years from and after the completion of said railroadprovided, #.# that this Act shs.ll not apply to any corporation which does not in good faith commence the construction of said rs.i3.roed within two years from the date of the passage of this Act•••*'* and every mixed, owned, held, used In order to take formed# was first interested in this no second railroad company one too# Through their efforts they getting a number of eastern capitalists Flagstaff to look secure a Many of the Flagstaff men who had been members of the one were succeeded in advantage of this act over tho project personally# the financial aid they were is to come to However, they did not -looking for and the company met with greater success then its predecessor# Two years to the Grand later, 1891, Flagstaff made its final bid for Canyon# That year a mass called to devise ways and means ing resolutions were a railroad meeting of the townspeople of constructing this line# was The follow¬ unanimously adoptedj w Sear ion Law 3 of the Fifteenth JLogislative Assembly of the —-.Territory of Arizona, Act# 28, pp. 37-33# 15/ Charles L. Packer son, John C. De La Yerae and Ellis Y aim-right, July 20, 1889# Arizona Champion, 21 1# Ve vd.ll extend support end co-operation to any individual or corporation who vdll construct such a line* 2* We 3* We vdll pledge our services and influence in procur¬ ing tho right of way through private property* we generously furnish what financial aid can*l° This testimonial of the bo of all willingness of the people of Flagstaff to possible help in the construction of Canyon did not prove to to come in from a railroad to the Grand be sufficient guarantee to entice tho outside to undertake the project* any connany One local com¬ formed, but never proceeded much beyond the act of drawing up pany was incorporation*^-^ articles of build such a railroad was The f to of these various efforts to always the same* Tho men v.ith the fore¬ sight did not have the capital and those v.ith the capital were unwill¬ ing to take the risk. It until the beginning of the twentieth was not century that a railroad was finally run in to the Grand Canyon, and then it did not even The join the main line at Flagstaff* opening of the Grand Canyon to public travel brought to it not i only tourists, but men interested in wresting their fortunes from its walls* them. Prospectors thought limitless wealth had been placed before They found traces of half the cliffs and floor of the The earliest a dozen or more different minerals in Canyon. report of prospecting in the Grand Canyon is in 1874* 16/ Coconino. Sun, October 22, 18S1* 17/ E. S* Gosney, David Babbitt, John Vo Rho&des, C* M* Thurston, G* A* Bray, P* J. Bremen, and iidward I!» Doe formed this company* Record of Articles of Incorporation, Coconino County, Territory of Arizona, Vol* I, pp* 12-13, County Recorder's Office, Flagstaff^ Arizona* 22 William Ridenour and 8. Crozier vdth two companions jhat year prospecting, probably in the western end of the Canyon. littlo were not very succossful, them away. drove did a because of an attack by hostile Indians, who T8 From 1885 to Prospecting, however, began in earnest about 1085. 1891 individual prospectors wandered about the Canyon, both on the rim These were men of little or no capital who th© gorge. and down in spend their winters prospecting. would They usually worked alone or in Some of these men; W. H. Ashurst, father of Senator small groups. Ashurst, Ralph Cameron, Hanse, They Kenry later United states Senator from Arizona, John Grand Canyon guide, and a few others, figured in the later develop¬ ment of the Canyon. They are eternally Prospectors are among the greatest day-dreamers. on the verge The Grand found Canyon prospectors were ro exception. much gold so flood the stake" the that if they were not careful they would be apt to of the business men of Flagstaff. never The Their enthusiasm These men would "grub¬ prospectors, who in tun. would stake out claims for The result is that many who They thought they had gold market and cause a drop in the price. converted many men Their faith end hope seem inexhaustible. of untold riches. did any then.^ mines vrill be found recorded In the names of of the prospecting. early prospectors expended, a great deal of time and energy on their work. As it is impossible to toko a pack animal into the Canyon 18/ KoClintoek, Arizona, Vol. II, p. 401. 19/ Babbitt, C. J., Personal Interview, March 1, 1940. 23 except by trail, they had to build trails in order to work their claims• thoy worked over to make passable for their animals. The most eastern, or Tanner L'ornon pioneer,^0 trail, was built by Seth B. Tenner, a about 1884 or 1885. by John Hence about 1884. built tourists in descending into The Eanoe or Red Canyon trail was He originally intended it to be used by the Canyon, but later, upon his discovery of and asbestos directly across the Colorado River from the foot of copper his These trails they built were o?.d abandoned Indian trails. rost of the trail,^ These were the two earliest trails opened he lengthened it. into the Canyon. From 1885 to 1889 the prospectors and tho tourists made their entry chiefly from Flagstaff. Her citizens were early convinced of the Canyon*s possibilities of mineral development and tourist attraction. They made effort to make her the gateway to this wealthy region. But Flag¬ every staff had settled became a competitor - by stock men about 187Q. a Like Flagstaff, v.illiems Williams. was first Y.ith the advent of the railroad it permanent center for lumbering and stock raising. i In the early eighties there was little apparent interest in the Canyon among the people of billions. it at the mouth of Diamond Creek from Peach of the Springs. more .a few of the railroad men had seen Canyon, which was reached by the road But their reports were rather vague and only a few curious took the trouble to make the trip. 'William hallace 20/ James, G. IV., In and Around Grand Canyon, pp. 242-245. 21/ Gilliland, R.-P., Personal Interview, March 21, 1940. 22/ McClintook, ^rizona, Tol. II,'p. 558. 24 Bass was ono an employee of the Atlantic year from Williens-23 pad its and Pacific railroad* In September of tho he made his first visit to tho Grand Canyon, approaching it same he In July of 1883 he arrived in Williams as of these men# Ho became vory interested in it both for its beauty mineral -wealth. However, it was not until about 1889 J that actually located there. Mention is made here of Bass beeause later he « leading men in the development of tor and a any tourist guide. become one of the • tho Grand Canyon region, as a prospec¬ However, between 1883 and 1889 neither he nor of his fellow citizens of Williams did much to take advantage of the opportunities offered by the Canyon. Several men did a little prospect¬ ing, but the town did nothing to connect itself with the Canyon However, once it became aware of the advantages to be gained about 1891. through such a connection it was more successful than The In 1885 until Flagstaff. opening of the south rim of Grand Canyon was a gradual process. permanent settlers began to some. in. of mineral wealth. but also many The Canyon not The majority were in search only offered riches to the prospectors attractions to the tourist. For the first five years the prospectors and tourists visited the Canyon in small numbers, and through thoir efforts laid tho foundations for the future The period from 1885 to 1890 was not one of great achievement, Canyon. but was development of the rather one of slow and permanent settlement. 23/ Bass, 24/ Noble, L. F», The Shinurao Quadrasgle, pp. 11-12 op. cit., pp. 36-37 25 CHAPTER KINING AT 121 GRAHI' CA1IY0B * Gi*3Bd Canyon owes its early development to prospectors and mining The deposits of minerals within the walls offered the companies. inducement to settlers. nuribers because large fortunes a The latter did not move to the Canyon in large the minerals were difficult of access. required to extract the ore elin.iiis.ted the labor great boom. in a short time. The arduous possibility of making Therefore, the Canyon never experienced The men who prospected within her towering walls came chiefly from Flagstaff and Williams and few of them took up sen chief other neighboring tovms. permanent residence. with homes elsewhere, who Very For the most part, they were spent their free time, mostly in the winter, prospecting. There were three main areas along the Canyon's rim where the pros¬ pectors concentrated their activities® As mentioned in the proceeding chapter, there were two trails, the Ttnnor end the Hsnce trails, at eastern end of the Canyon. The Tanner trail did not figure prominently in the development of the Canyon, whereas the Hanee trail did. letter was Grand located about sixteen miles east of the This present village of Canyon, Arizona. The second and most where Grand the important center of activity was located Canyon village stands todjy. 26 Here Bright Angel trail beginsThe third point of interest along the Canyons rin Boss the Camp, looated twonty-five miles west of Bright Angol trail. Although the Hance and Bass trails than the Grand activity, and In 1891 "William That 2 These same to build a out the year importance. work trail over men had been They had looated signs of rich mineral content. neat and carry (1884 and 1889) Henry Aohurst, John Marshall, C. II. He Clare and ing in the Canyon for about four years. necessary built earlier overs hadowed them in Thomas Frier built the Grand View trail. which showed were View and Bright Angel trails, those latter quickly hocana their rivals for was was prospect¬ many mines In order to work them it which they might pack in their equip- ore. begun was on the Bright Angel Trail. Miles J. Cameron, P. D« Berry, Robert Ferguson and C. H. McClure constructed it for the development of their mines. They filed it as a toll road,0 a fact which later caused trouble. I.hile these local claims and prospectors building trails, a were exploring the Canyon, locating railroad survey party from Denver, Colorado, i l/ Bright Angel is the name applied to this trail, to the Fred Harvey hotel at the head of the trail, to the creek emptying into the river at the foot of the Eaibab trail, to the canyon through which the creek runs and to a point on the north rim. overlooking the Bright originated with Major J. 7/.°Powell. " Major Powell on his river voyage in 1889 named the creek mentioned above, Bright Angel, in contrast to a vea-y muddy one he had passed farther upstream. The latter he called the Dirty Devil. Angel Canyon. This name 2/ Coconino Sun, June 20, 1891. 2/ Files of Civil Cases, District Court of the Fourth Judicial District of the Territory of Arizona, in end for the County of Coconino, Case 641, "Answer of Defense", MS, Covnty Court House, Flagstaff, Arizona. 27 went through the Canyon on the river# Stanton this was the Robert Brewster expedition referred to in the first chapter#^ This expedition jr Savs report of mineral His deposits found during tho survey were widely circulated# glorriLag reports advertised a comparatively unknown region# result, raining and capital began to come in, bringing the Grand Canyon prominence# companies to enter tho mining field at the Canyon The first of the after the Stanton Improvement the As a activities increased and were undertaken on a large scale# Outside companies into Stanton's unexpected impetus to interest in mining in Grand Canyon# expedition, Company^of was the Colorado Grand Canyon Mining end This company's stated purposes were- Denver# operation of mines along the Canyon, located by the Stanton expedi¬ tion, the location of new claims, the establishment of toll roads and ferry across the river, the a operation of hotels on the rim, and the acquisition and sale of real estate#' She company was of endeavor, it attempted too much# because of any was the first of a largo The possibility of fabulous riches to be uncovered led many to V S©e above Chapter I, p# 13.# ^ Ceesftino Sun, Juno 13, 1891# 6/ Ibid., June 13, 1891 / Mention is here made of it, not Its fate was the rule rather than the enterprises# men 7 Like pioneers in most fields great success, but because it number of similar exoeption. not very long-lived# organise companies to try their luck# But the Canyon offered Record of Artioles of Incorporation, Coconino County, Territory of Arizona, Vol. I, pp# 8-9, Recorder's Office, Flagstaff, Arizona# 28 unusual obstacles# Obstacles practically impossible to over cone with equipment on hand at that date. the . Host conpanies found that nine development under such great difficulties eliminated nevertheless, it required many years' experience to Grand Canyon was not the treasure house the During these years the population at all hope of profit, convince then that they had Greened it to be. Grand Canyon grew rapidly. companies," in their vain attempts to keep going, did much toward the The Perhaps the greatest benefit development of the area as it is today. it received from then was the railroad. Flagstaff and Lillians saw the advantage of a red 1 road to Grand Cenyon. They both desired it, realizing the tourist trade would be Flagstaff lost the railroad for two reasons. stimulated. to She endeavored persuade railroad companies to put in a line chiefly for tourist trade. This trade was not taking. yet large enough tc warrant such an expensive under¬ Besides this, all Flagstaff offered was moral support and what financial aid her -wealthier citisens were Lillians' efforts were more willing to contribute. practical. She went to the saining com¬ panies, emphasizing the advantage to them of having a means of transporta¬ tion for their too operations. They needed this transportation and were only trillions pointed out that in glad of an opportunity to get it. addition, they could carry passengers, which would give them extra revenue. As a final inducement just a vague W. 0. 8/ Lillians offered a substantial cash subsidy, not promise as Flagstaff had given. C^Bucky") O'Keill, a nine promoter from Prescott, Arizona, ficClintock, Arizona, Vol. I, p. 295 29 started to work to find a company which would build a railroad from. Williams.^ Ho succeeded in interesting the Lombard, Goode and Company, eastern firm en engaged in mining operations about twenty miles south of the rim# On July 31# 1897# Lombard# Goode end Company incorporated the Srnta Fe end Grand Canyon Railway Company. Their stated purpose was th© construction of a railroad and telegraph line from a point near Williams to the Grand of March, in Canyon.^ 1893. The project Although there was were started during the first week great preparations and enthusiasm Williams# Flagstaff was skeptical, as shown by n clipping in the Harch 5th issue of the Coconino Sung The building of the Genta ?e and Grand Canyon Railroad was commenced at Williams this week and it is hoped that the project may be finished. But as so ma£y roads have been started in the direction of the Canyon and abandoned after con¬ siderable work was dene the Sun has serious doubts about a railroad being constructed to the Grand Canyon in this generation.^ Before the railroad could be sary. completed, an act of Congress vras neces¬ In 1893 President Benjamin Harrison, by proclamation, had created i the Grand Canyon Forest Reserve, closing the authorising the construction of the railroad Marcus A. Smith of Arizona, and passed act stated in 9/ area was to entry. The bill introduced by Delegate by Congress, May 18, 1898. This parti Cameron, R. E», "The Bright Angel Trull", Speeches of TTon« Palph states, pe 21. H. Cameron of Arizona in the 0 en ate of the United 10/ Record of Articles of Incorporation, Coconino County, Territory of Arizona, Vol. I, pp. 123-217, MS, County Recorder's Office, Flagstaff, Arizona. W Coconino Sun, March 5, 1898. 30 Bo it enacted. that the Santa Fe and Grand •• Canyon railroad company... is authorized to COILS"* truot and maintain a railroad aver end through tho Grand Canyon national Forest Reserve... running in a northerly direction from Y. ill isms, Arizona- thence proceeding by the most practicehie rout© through a point at or near Lombard and the Bright Angel frail... in an easterly direction to the Little Colorado Rivor? also to proceed by such side tracks, exten¬ sions, switches and spurs, as may be necessary to reach the various groups of mires in said forest reserve, v'ork continued all in said Coconino on the Grand Lombard, Goode and Company. Canyon railroad from 1898 By 1900 production at the Anita mines a rich out-put of 1ftien the ore. ore In the of that year an summer ship of the railroad end also for exist, and there an the line's application for a receiver¬ injunction restraining the parties On June made. There 8, 1901, was only a judgment and decree of foreclosure one bid made at the road Company. Their bid of §150,000.00*^ August 10, 1901, they incorporated end turned the company over The Statues Chapter 343, at p. Company in other was made and Fc Rail¬ accepted. On tho Grand Canyon Railway Company, were parts. having all their trouble, The number of men and companies Large of tho United states of America, Vol. XXX, 418. 13/ Coconino Sun. August 18, 1900. 14/ Austin, en. and sale to the Santa Fe. Thile Lombard, Goode and mining activity continued as was sale, that of Edward D. Kenna, Byron L. Smith end James H. Eokles, agents for the Santa 12/ were possession from incurring further indebtedness in its management, node. was to prospects of the ccmpsny's paying the'debts incurred in construction. in had failed to materialize the primary reason for building the railroad ceased no to 1900 under The company had borrowed money to build the railroad, antici¬ censed. pating County...*2 cit., p. 33 31 ensued was slowly dwindling, but those who continued, were very thus nearly ten years longer. active for Although John Eance had sold his hotol and trail to J. ?«, Thurber Tclfree in 1395, he continued to live at Grand Canyon, end J# S. had He eeveral mines in the Canyon, the best of which were his asbestos discovered in 1892 near the Colorado River at the foot of his nines There were sixteen of these claixis containing a very high trail. *5 R They were patented in 1901, grade of asbestos. he bonded them to a company called the Hence Asbestos Killing Company, this was a Massachusetts company headed souths later the company by George E, Hills , However, the company never developing of its property and 1904 Eance1 s appointment the mines were later cold for The Last Chance was looated in 1890 taxes, and txe did much was still privately revoked, owned,~u mining claim, in the Canyon below Grand View Point, by R, A .Fergus on, P. It, Berry, E, I, C-ale, II# J. Cameron and Thomas McMillan, ore, A. few bought the mines for #6,250,00, rmd appointed superintendent of them, Haioa in© same year This mine contained some very rich copper which took first prize for richness cjb the Chicago World*s Pair ill 1898, There later# were several other mines in this vicinity located three By 1300 they had all been acquired by R# E# Cameron end P, D, Berry, who had also secured possession of the Last Chance mine. group of mines is at tho Grand 15/ a Canyon, This good example of what happened to most of the mines Any financial gains which the owners mode Book of Deeds, Ho# 32, p# were not 599, County Recorder's Office, Flagstaff, Arizona# IS/ Gillilsnd, years S. P#, personal Interview, March 21, 1940, 32 due to statement is demonstrated thea to In 1901 the owners sold Henry P. Barbour for $1,875.00. Barbour sold them the same to R. W. Foster for a recorded sum of Foster a by the history of the Cameron-Berry mines. located between 1830 and 1893. Jhoy were year This minerals extracted from them, but rather to their sale. $40,000.00. Then in 1902 turned thea over to the Canyon Copper Company of which he was nehbor.^ la 1913 the Canyon Copper Company sold tho mill site to ?